BEAT THE BURMA BOYCOTT
The best way to see this country, and help its people, is to spread your spending and stay off the government tourist trail
By: Robert Reid
Published: 24/05/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Brunch
A great thing about the tourism boycott to Burma is how thoroughly it reminds us all to re-evaluate the effect of travel on the places we visit. If you do go to Burma, there are myriad opportunities to make some little differences that can mean a lot to a growing number of locals.
Some of it is keeping in mind where your money goes, and spreading it farther than the normal tourist trails; another is (and it may sound goofy) talk and talk and talk, and make new friends. Many locals cherish outside contact - they have so little - and the two-way exchange that comes from it is reassurance for them that Burma isn't forgotten.
If you're spending all your time with one guide, or on your own, you're not really seeing Burma right. The temples and mountains and markets are lovely, but ultimately a trip to Burma is mostly about the people.
After we spent a few hours with a nat expert in Pagan while researching this book, for instance, the grey-haired local, offering a second cup of tea in his home, said "I'll remember you till the end of eternity."
DIY OR PACKAGE TOUR?
Many locals who support tourism favour individual travellers over package tourists, who often pay their money outside the country and have far less local interaction while in Burma. Another criticism of such tours is that the government, in some cases, takes 7% of remittances to local agents who arrange things, and "encourages" certain services to be used.
We can't say it's a rule, but we've seen a high-end European agent almost exclusively use Tay Za's Air Bagan and Aureum Palace hotels.
If you're used to having a car at the airport waiting for you, and guides showing you where to go, that can be done and arranged privately. Just because some roads are rough doesn't mean you have to sacrifice all comforts.
Either contact a Rangoon-based agent before a trip, or give yourself a couple of days to do so once you arrive, and they can help set up private guides, transport and hotels. Ask to pay as you go to ensure your money is spread out.
And consider talking with more than one agent, telling them what you want, to gauge offers.
MYANMAR (BURMA): At most bookstores—450 baht
Better agents sometimes have some charity services in place - one private Rangoon agent started a small-loans program so that trishaw or boat drivers or weavers can purchase their means and slowly pay the loan back. Ask about contributing directly to a clinic or school as part of a trip (always do this in person).
PICKING HOTELS
The days when uninformed travellers checked into government-run hotels are now almost entirely past. The dwindling number of government hotels - usually named for the city they're in (for example, Sittwe Hotel in Sittwe) and haphazardly run - are frequently vacant these days. We recommend choosing from the 600 private accommodation choices, which we focus on in this book.
That said, some money from your accommodation expenses - an estimated 12% tax - goes to the government no matter where you stay.
Visitors who want to be sure the least amount of their money goes to the government can stick with budget family-run guesthouses and mini-hotels. Those who want their stay to reach the most people sometimes choose to stay in midrange and top-end hotels, which can employ staff of 100 or more and often fund community projects.
SPREAD YOUR MONEY
Critics of independent travel argue that travellers' spending usually bottlenecks at select places, even if those spots are privately run. Familiarity can be reassuring - such as your trishaw-driver buddy, or the plate of noodles that didn't get you sick - but try to mix it up a bit. There are a few things to consider.
Don't buy all of your needs (bed, taxi, guide, rice) from one source.
Be conscious that behind-the-scenes commissions are being paid on most things you pay for when in the company of a driver or guide. If all travellers follow the same lead, the benefits only go to a select few. Plan en-route stops, or take in at least one off-the-beaten-track destination, where locals are less used to seeing foreigners.
Mix up locations where you catch taxis and trishaws - and try to take ones from guys not lingering outside tourist areas.
Try to eat at different family restaurants and if you're staying at a hotel, eat out often, for example, in Ngapali Beach, local restaurants are just across the road from the beach and hotels.
Either buy handicrafts directly from the artisans, or, if not, don't get all your souvenirs from one private shop.
2008 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. For more information, visit http://www.lonelyplanet.com.
This is an edited extract from Burma, 10th edition by Robert Reid, Lonely Planet Publications, 2009.
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