HIDING OUT IN TRANG
Trang province on the Andaman coast has the allure of Phuket without all the tourists
By: Peerawat Jariyasombat
Published: 24/05/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Brunch
Situated modestly about 40 kilometres inland from the Andaman Sea on the north-south railway is the quiet town of Trang. A loud announcement of our arrival at Trang station woke me up in time to hear the warning to "please check your belongings before leaving the train". When the roar of the engine finally stopped I grabbed my bag and hopped off, darting straight to a local restaurant a stone's throw from the station.
Shortly after being seated, and without saying a word, a waiter filled up the table with various kinds of dim sum freshly steamed.
Trang has a very outstanding dining tradition. Most people prefer to eat out and there are numerous restaurants that serve dim sum all day long. One of the most famous breakfast dishes here is roasted pork.
You may wonder how people in Trang can enjoy roasted pork with morning coffee, but this is a herbal roasted pork with honey, rather sweet and crispy.
Don't get furious if the waiter asks: "Coffee, tea, congee, or noodles?" even after you think there is no space left on your table for any more dishes. Trang people always enjoy a big meal, and when in Rome ... So, within a minute my table was literally covered with samples of the local cuisine.
However, I ate only what I wanted, and when I asked the waiter to tally the bill he charged me only for what I had eaten.
Life in Trang is this easy. If you have the time to hang around, Trang is a highly recommended destination. You can leave busy Bangkok in the evening, spend a lazy night on the train and enjoy great cuisine for breakfast before escaping to the beach. Unlike pricey Phuket or busy Krabi, I find Trang gives much more value for the money and is less touristy.
ISLAND HOPPING
The long-tailed boat lowers its speed and drifts over the turquoise sea to the neglected beach of Koh Kradan, where there are only a handful of tourists.
Trang is famous for its annual festival, underwater weddings and Emerald Cave, the famous winding tunnel that leads to a hidden beach on Koh Mook. But actually there are numerous islands where you can hide out in tranquility. Koh Kradan, a small island only one hour's boat ride from the mainland, is one of these. Part of the island belongs to the Hat Chao Mai National Marine Park. The land around the eastern beach is privately owned and there are some comfy resorts to hang your hat, and there is a trail leading to the western beach of the island, where you can enjoy an impressive sunset if the weather allows.
Nearby Koh Ngai, which is actually in Krabi province, is another quiet island with a number of resorts to choose from. From the beach of Koh Ngai there is a great view of the archipelago scattered throughout the seas around Trang.
The waters off Koh Ma and Koh Chuak are the perfect place to explore a vivid technicolour underwater-world, watching marine life meander around a colony of colourful soft coral. Don't be surprised if you go diving at Koh Chuak and someone shouts out the name of the island at you. In Thai, Koh Chuak has a double meaning - it can also mean "grasp the rope". Try swimming in the strong current and you will understand how the island got its name.
If you love a lively time, visit the beach on Koh Mook's western side, where a party is always held after sunset. Koh Sukorn is a nice choice if you are in the mood to lay low and absorb the local lifestyle. Here beautiful and lonely beaches are next to rice fields.
The mainland's relaxing charm can be easily found while roaming on a motorbike. All in all, Trang province is a great place to hide out and enjoy life.
http://www.bangkokpost.com/travel/travelscoop/17248/hiding-out-in-trang
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